The Mazda MX-5 was launched in Australia in October 1989 and was a hit straight away thanks to its styling and handling making it a genuine sports car.
This is not simply a hot hatch with added power and some added-on body mods, it’s a fair dinkum full-on sports machine.
In this review we begin with the almost all-new Mazda MX-5, the NC series, which arrived Downunder in September, 2005.
It was slightly larger than the model it replaced, though clever engineering meant that weight increases were kept to a minimum.
With a couple of minor updates along the way the NC was sold through until the launch of the fourth generation ND in August, 2015.
The ND series took a completely different direction to its predecessors.
While the NB and NC were solid evolutions of the original NA of 1989, the ND designers started on a fresh new model.
Many MX-5 owners love to drive with the top down even if the weather is threatening, well aware the soft-top only takes seconds to close, something that can be done when stopped at a red traffic light.
You should have a supple body though, because a fair bit of upper body twisting is needed.
A folding hardtop roof was introduced in September, 2006.
It not only works neatly, but adds a minimum of weight to the car and takes little away from luggage carrying capacity.
So popular did the folding hardtop become in Australia that imports of the soft-top slowed, and ceased altogether towards the end of 2012.
However, the soft top made a reappearance with the ND Series, which is also offered in RF (Retractable Fastback) format.
Note that engine power isn’t as impressive as the chassis dynamics.
Serious owners like it like that, saying that getting the best from the car is what they love.
If you’re into traffic-light Grand Prix starts you may find yourself getting beaten by some fairly ordinary cars.
So, if the other driver suggests you do so by moving slightly forward a couple of times during the red-light period – ignore them.
That said, in 2004, the SE modcel was introduced, developed specifically for Australia, the US and Japan, with a turbocharged 1.8-litre engine introduced that developed 121kW at 6000 rpm and 206Nm of torque at 4500 rpm.
It offered more performance, sharper handling and more aggressive styling for just $4960 more than the standard model.
Then of course, there was the little known, limited edition SP, 100 examples of which were sold from January, 2002 at $55,540 with a turbocharged 1.8-litre engine that delivered a more serious 150kW and 280Nm.
Whe 2005 NC Series, a 2.0-litre engine was introduced.
Updates to the engine in 2009 and again in 2012 saw it able to rev to higher numbers.
Low down grunt was improved at the same time, which is something that’s not always easy to do.
The ND series was the first to offer engine options, a 1.5- and 2.0-litre.
The 2.0 got a major makeover to increase engine power in August, 2018.
Half the fun of driving a little roadster like this is rowing it along on the gearbox, going for the right gear at the right time to make the best of the engine’s relatively limited torque and power.
The gear change on the Mazda MX-5 is a sweet unit with short positive changes that not only work well but feel great at the same time.
Earlier manual gearboxes were five-speed units, a six-speed manual is fitted in all models covered in this feature.
An automatic transmission with six forward ratios became an option with the introduction of the ND series in 2005.
Sporty programming of its electronics means it’s not far short of a manual in driving pleasure.
But give us a ‘proper’ manual any day!
It’s fairly easy for a good amateur mechanic to work on and spare parts are normally reasonably priced.
The Mazda dealer network isn’t huge but works effectively and we have heard of no real complaints about spare parts availability.
Smaller dealerships in the more remote country areas may not stock all parts.
Insurance can be expensive, particularly for young and/or inexperienced drivers so it’s worth shopping around to get the best deal.
As always, make sure you understand what you are getting – or not getting.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
It’s probably best to keep clear of MX-5s that have been used in lap dashes at race tracks or in rallies – unless, of course, you’re planning to take part in the fun yourself and need the necessary safety mods.
One that has been on a track can often be recognised by tyre scrubbing (though different tyres may have been used on the track), a roll cage, fire extinguisher or extra instruments.
Heavy deposits of brake dust on the callipers and the inside of the wheels may be a sign of racetrack use, or simply of hard on-road driving.
In early models look for stitching that’s worn or broken in the soft-tops.
Discolouration in the plastic rear window in early models ruins the looks, but isn’t overly expensive to replace.
A glass rear window was used from the NB Series onwards and is probably the best choice for all but the purists.
Look for crash damage that’s been repaired, indeed it may be very wise to call in a professional if you are in any way suspicious.
Be suspicious of water stains on the seats and trim, check under the carpets for dampness or rust as the MX-5 may have been caught with its top down in the rain.
The engine should start easily, idle reasonably smoothly and not blow smoke from the exhaust under hard acceleration.
The gearbox should be light and positive in its change action and not baulk or crunch even on the fastest of changes.
The third-second change is usually the first one to suffer.
HOW MUCH?
Expect to pay from $5000 to $9000 for a pre-2010 Mazda MX-5; $9000 to $14,000 for a 2011 Roadster; $11,000 to $16,000 for a 2012 Touring convertible; $15,000 to $22,000 for a 2104 Sports Roadster or a 2016 GT; $18,000 to $25,000 for a 2015 25th Anniversary convertible or a 2017 GT; $20,000 to $27,000 for a 2016 RF GT; $23,000 to $31,000 for a 2018 GT; $27,000 to $36,000 for a 2019 RF GT; and $34,000 to $46,000 for a 2020 GT RS.
CAR BUYING TIPS
Take a friend with you when shopping for a used car.
That way they can keep the chattering sales person at bay while you check out the car without interruptions.
Used car prices have generally increased during the period of new car stock shortages.
Start looking at adverts for used vehicles several months before you intend buying.
That way you can get a feel for the price being asked and whether they are rising and falling, as dealers need to clear stock due to overcrowding.
Keep an eye on adverts for new cars that say there are specials on particular models.
This can lead to a lot of traded-ins taking up too much space in yards and they will be discounted to get rid of them.
Keep an eye open for ads of unpopular cars, as there can vary greatly in price.
Owners struggling to find a buyers may be forced to grit their teeth and drop their asking price.
If checking a used car at a dealership look at other cars on the lot.
This can provide an insight into the quality of the vehicles in which the dealer specialises.
If buying privately ask for proof of ownership and make sure the insurance covers you for taking a test drive.
Take a slow walk around any car you’re considering, looking for obvious defects.
It amuses us how many people dive into tiny details, only to discover later a major ding somewhere on the other side of the car.
Ideally any road test of a car you’re getting serious about should be done with the engine stone cold. Early morning is best.
If you’re serious about buying a vehicle, tell the seller you would like to take it for a good long test drive.
If they insist on coming that’s understandable, but try to avoid them “selling” the car to you.
Put bluntly, ask them to shut up,
In their later years, cars with a reputation for being long lived and trouble free sometimes attract buyers who have no intention of ever servicing them.
The next owner may suffer as a result.
RECALLS
To browse recalls on all vehicles go to the ACCC at: www.productsafety.gov.au/products/transport/cars/